Aureole New York
One Bryant Park
135 West 42nd St.
New York, NY 10036
Tel. +1 (212) 319 1660
Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi; Avocado, Mango, Baby Red Shiso
Iberico Pork Tenderloin; Roasted Brussel Sprouts, Asian Pear, Peanut Crumble, Pork Jus
Beef “Pot au Feu”; Petite Carrots, Turnip, Trumpet Royal Mushrooms Beef Bouillon
Selection of Murray’s Artisanal Cheeses (Not pictured)
This was my first dinner at Charlie Palmer’s Aureole, but it won’t be my last. Everything was spectacular from start to finish.
So often with Burgundy the focus is on the rare and pricey, so it was great to spend some time with wines that capture the essence of the Burgundian spirit yet remain reasonably priced. Although the focus was on wine, the staff at Aureole did a fabulous job with the food. Every course was delicious and wine-friendly, while service was top-notch, not always easy to do with a larger group and this many wines. Readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before dinner.
Jean-Yves Devenay’s 2009 Rully shows just how appealing the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise can be. Round, soft and generous, the 2009 is an excellent choice for drinking over the next year or two. The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet from Benoit Ente is just as delicious tonight as it was when I last tasted it a few months ago. A classic profile of Puligny stone fruits, slate and white flowers emerges from the glass in a precise, nuanced Burgundy that is all about crystalline purity. I am reminded of why I enjoy Benoit Ente’s wines so much. The 2011 Puligny is a model of true excellence. A totally different side of 2011 comes through in Lamy’s 2011 St. Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard. Rich, voluptuous and beautifully layered in the glass, the Chez Edouard is simply brilliant. Here the flavors are a little richer, warmer and more resonant. The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne from Bonneau du Martray remains reticent and not fully expressive, although it opens up nicely over time. Subtle veins of minerality support white orchard fruit and flowers in a layered, subtle Charlemagne. These days, white Burgundy is often served before reds, but I often enjoy whites at the end of a meal. I came to these three 2011s with the cheese course and they were all fabulous. When white Burgundy is on, it is delicious.
Billard-Gonnet’s 2010 Pommard Rugiens Bas is a delicious starting point for our reds tonight. There is a lovely immediacy to the fruit in this supple, juicy, early-drinking Pommard. The 2011 Nuits St.-Georges Clos de L’Arlot from Domaine de L’Arlot, shows what makes the best 2011 red Burgundys so appealing. Plush, open and resonant, the 2011 graces the palate with lovely depth and silkiness in the understated style of the year. This is a lovely showing for the 2011. David Duband’s 2010 Clos de Vougeot is without question the wine of this flight. Exotic, perfumed and delicate, the 2010 is totally beguiling from the very first taste. Orange peel, mint and crushed flowers add tons of aromatic lift in this deep, totally inviting Clos Vougeot. What a beautiful wine this is.
A super-classic expression of this site, Drouhin’s 2010 Nuits St.-Georges Les Damodes is laced with dark red cherry, mint, plum, hard candy and earthiness. The style is rich, explosive and easy to enjoy without too much fuss. Virgile Lignier’s 2011 Morey St.-Denis Les Chenevery fleshes out nicely in the glass. Exotic floral and citrus notes meld into a core of dark fruit, smoke and licorice. The 2011 is broad, ample and hugely delicious, while the tannins are impressively fine. Faiveley’s 2011 Corton Clos des Corton is a fitting conclusion to this great night of wine and food. Intensely saline and pointed, the 2011 impresses for its pure energy and tension. The flavors are vibrant and impeccably delineated in a Burgundy that is all about finesse. This is a great showing from the Clos des Corton.