Noize sardines

Vinous Table: Noizé, London, United Kingdom

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Aug 2020

While current distancing measures are in place, we must do without the thrill of the crowd. That does not necessarily preclude us from enjoying a meal out, however, and I had a thoroughly pleasant evening in every way, one that meant a lot after months in hibernation.

Southwold full line up copy (1)

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind

featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives

Neal Martin, Aug 2020

The 2016 Bordeaux vintage might have been born with a halo above its cherubic head, but you cannot see a halo if blindfolded. This report sees the 2016s re-examined blind at the annual “Southwold” tasting.

Ganevat 2015

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes de Jura Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Other

Neal Martin, Aug 2020

The Jura is both underground and hip at the moment. By that I mean its top producers are the stuff of sommeliers’ dreams, attracting a loyal, niche following of wine-lovers, without translating into huge sales or mainstream acceptance.

Pibarnon 2007

Cellar Favorite: 2007 Château de Pibarnon Bandol

France, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

The first official report I ever wrote for Robert Parker was neither Bordeaux nor Burgundy. In fact, it was Bandol. I instantly fell in love with this picture-postcard region: the mountainous backdrop that forms a protective amphitheatre and creates a benign climate; the quaint hilltop villages; the glistening Mediterranean Sea.

Sorrel monkfishcopy

Vinous Table: Sorrel, Dorking, United Kingdom

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

I vowed that as soon as Sorrel reopened, I would publish my Vinous Table, crossing my fingers that it would not be another victim of COVID-19. The fact that you are reading this confirms that Sorrel has again opened its doors.

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Beyond Wine: Getting Back in the Saddle

Beyond Wine, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

Since my trip to Bordeaux in late February, the question on my mind has been when and how I could restart visits abroad. Five months later I ventured back into a new landscape when I drove to Chablis and found aspects that are reassuringly exactly the same and others that are different.

Petrus full line up 2 copy

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011

featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

What is the place for a retrospective on Petrus in a time of global pandemic and economic hardship? This article has been in suspended animation since January 2019, when London’s Hide restaurant witnessed one of the most unforgettable wine dinners in recent memory. But finally, after 18 months, I decided that these rare and precious wines should be written up. First of all, as the only journalist in attendance, I had a duty to formally record a tasting that might never happen again. Secondly, life goes on; you cannot put everything on hold forever.

1949 forster tba

Cellar Favorite: 1949 Weingut Dr. von Basserman-Jordan Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling TBA

germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

This German Trockenbeerenauslese appeared at the end of a La Mission Haut-Brion dinner a few months ago, and to be honest, though it was love at first sip, at the time I did not truly appreciate its rarity.

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Beyond Wine: Albums of the Month

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

In a change to our scheduled program, instead of a single album, such is the flurry of wonderful music popping up in an industry that badly needs support that this time around, I send several music recommendations Vinous readers’ way. When the world goes down the pan, it seems to stir creativity in any art form, not least music, which has helped me through the current crisis, as it has countless others. Now is a great moment to seek out new bands, particularly here in the UK, which seems to have rediscovered its musical mojo in 2020.

2001 fritz haag copy

Cellar Favorite: 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #9

Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Jul 2020

I rue the fact that I have not or rather cannot keep up with German Riesling. Anyone who doesn’t like German Riesling either doesn’t like wine or is no longer alive.