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Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016

featured, France: Burgundy, France

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.

Portland starter

Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.

Kumeu river line up

To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017

New Zealand, featured

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Kumeu River is New Zealand's greatest Chardonnay producer, one that is genuinely world class. Following the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted, this article traces the story of the Brajkovich family, details their vineyards and philosophies, to find out how they make such bloody good Chardonnay.

Angelus 1953 bottle

Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Sometimes these forgotten and frequently traduced periods are not as fallow as you might presume, especially in this Manichean age where we prefer to see things in black and white.

Drc 2016 bottle line up

The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Everyone is at the mercy of Mother Nature, including the most famous domaine in Burgundy. Late spring frost denied Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s three releases of their 2016 vintage, but how do the surviving crus fare now that they are in bottle? Do they finish on a major or minor chord?

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Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

From whatever perspective you examine this Clos de la Roche, at least on the basis of this solitary encounter, I can only conclude that it is a perfect wine.

Pichon lalande chateau building

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.

James blake temp

Beyond Wine Album Review of Assume Form - James Blake

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

If you want to know how music sounds right now, stream Assume Form and relish one of the most innovative musicians forging his own interesting and now happier path.

Petrus grapes 2016 vintage copy

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was praised to high heavens during en primeur, but the real test of quality is once the wines are finished and bottled. Is it truly one of the great modern-day vintages?

Crab with black truffle

Vinous Table: Core by Clare Smyth, London, United Kingdom

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

Core is the most impressive debut since I first dined at The Ledbury, another Notting Hill destination restaurant.