Vosne romanee 1971 arnoux cover

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.

Talbot 1 copy

A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010

France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

In December last year, Château Talbot celebrated a century of ownership by the Cordier family with a vertical tasting at the property. This article assesses the vintages and where they place Talbot in the Saint-Julien hierarchy as a new chapter opens.

Zoko moko seabass

Vinous Table: Zoko Moko, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France

Vinous Table, France

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

I looked forward to Zoko Moko more than any other restaurant during my time in the Pays Basque. Many had sung its praises, and eating out in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is always a pleasure.

Doliveiras bottles

Madeira: Fortified for All Occasions

featured, Portugal

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

Following my look at ancient Madeira earlier this year, we shift the focus towards younger Madeira and more recent bottlings, many of which offer great value together with the joy that this fortified wine can bring.

Marques de riscal 1952 1964

Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

It was a pleasure to take a break during a period of alternating between Bordeaux and Burgundy and attend a tasting of one of my favorite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal.

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Remembering Jean-Bernard Delmas

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

Jean-Bernard Delmas, who passed away at the age of 83 on 3 October 2019, was a giant figure in Bordeaux and especially the Graves. In 1960 Delmas succeeded his father, Georges Delmas, as régisseur of Château Haut-Brion, not just a First Growth for him, but where he was born in 1935. They were large shoes to fill since his father had overseen every vintage since 1921. However, not only did Jean-Bernard Delmas debut with the regal 1961 Haut-Brion that continues to astonish to this day, but he made the audacious decision to replace the château’s old wooden fermentation vats with twelve stainless-steel vessels. Its revolutionary impact cannot be overstated.

Bordeaux 1961 line up2 edited

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

The 1961 vintage continues to elicit tingles down the spine of Bordeaux-lovers. Almost sixty years later, how are they holding up and do they still deserve our reverence? What factors determined their quality? And who is Chairman Miaow?

Embellie perch copy

Vinous Table: L’Embellie, Tours, France

Vinous Table, France: Loire

Neal Martin, Sep 2019

L’Embellie was thoroughly enjoyable. There are plenty of tourist restaurants in the center of Tours offering mediocre fare, but L’Embellie is a step above others in the vicinity.

Osamu uchida bottles

The Other Side of Bordeaux

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Sep 2019

This article moves the Bordeaux spotlight to its more unfamiliar and esoteric producers, towards wines that are reminders that it can offer tremendous value-for-money.

Carbonnieux 1947 bottle

Cellar Favorite: 1947 Carbonnieux Blanc

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Sep 2019

Mature white Bordeaux is rarely discussed and, to be honest, rarely tasted. In my own experience, lunches or dinners commencing with a venerable Bordeaux Blanc are as regular as Halley’s comet. That’s a pity, because whenever they do form the opening act, they offer pertinent reminders of their quality.