2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Jun 2021
Two thousand-twenty was a year of ups and downs. A number of challenges during the growing season kept vineyard managers and winemakers on their toes, just as the world grappled with the most serious health crisis in living memory. Now that the 2020s are being released en primeur, the Bordelais refer to the vintage as the third in a ‘trilogy’ that includes 2018 and 2019, but it’s not always easy to separate the marketing buzz from reality. How did the wines turn out?
Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020
featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2021
Twenty-twenty was a year that turned out like no other, yet Nature ploughs on regardless, another Bordeaux vintage, another primeur and another report from barrel. Does 2020 complete the triumvirate? Does it really belong up there with the greatest vintages? As usual, I ignored all the hype and tell it how I find it.
His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2021
Jean-Antoine Nony was one of the first winemakers I ever interviewed for Wine-Journal in 2003. Almost two decades later, I finally return to Grand Mayne to conduct a comprehensive vertical and discover more about this ascendant Saint-Émilion estate.
2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2021
It all started innocently enough with a few bottles of 2005 Bordeaux during lockdown. Then a few more, and then some more after that. Before I knew it I had tasted through a good number of the reference points. The wines were absolutely thrilling, just as I remembered from my last large tasting of the 2005s, about five years ago. One of my close friends suggested a comprehensive look back at the vintage, so here it is.
Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2021
After an uneven vintage in 2017, Bordeaux was buzzing with anticipation over the 2018s. To be sure, the wines were showy from barrel, but tasting en primeur is always a moving target. The wines are of course very young and sensitive to atmospheric changes as well as other variables. Now that the 2018s have been bottled, do they live up to expectations?
Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2021
Following the vertical that I conducted at the estate back in 2018, I recently joined Emmanuel Cruse via Zoom for a small tasting of recent vintages of “The Fives”, including the 2000 d’Issan that was not included in my The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 article.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2021 New Releases
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2021
In this week's Cellar Favorite column, we offer two completely separate and independent views on the 2021 releases from Château Latour.
The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2021
The 2018 Bordeaux vintage produced some incredible wines, but is it truly a legendary year? In the largest in-bottle report that I have ever published with over 1,000 wines reviewed, I answer that question and explain the reasons underlying its successes and shortcomings.
Cellar Favorite: 1928 Calon-Ségur
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2021
According to the Vinous database, which likes to keep a tab on these things, I have tasted 1928s from 22 Bordeaux châteaux, which is 22 more than I ever imagined.
Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2021
I have been fortunate to taste the legendary Château d’Yquem a number of times since the early 1980s but hadn’t had the opportunity to actually drink it in many years. That was until a generous friend brought a surprise bottle along to an indulgent Château Petrus vertical this fall, to be shared among a small group of wine lovers at the outstanding Peppercorn’s Grill in Hartford, Connecticut.