Cellar Favorite: 1970 Gallais Bellevue
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, Jun 2019
I procured two or three bottles of the 1970 Gallais Bellevue from a Saint-Émilion retailer not because I had a clue who or what Gallais Bellevue was, but because of the name of the proprietor, Paul Delon.
Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2019
Filhot is among the largest and grandest estates in Sauternes, yet over many years of experience, its wines often pose as many questions as answers. Would visiting the estate, plus a vertical tasting stretching back decades, alter my opinion?
Cellar Favorite: 1934 Cheval Blanc
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, May 2019
Naming my favorite Bordeaux château is always a difficult task, but if forced to choose my top five, I would unquestionably include the property that is Pomerol in all but classification: Cheval Blanc. The vintage that alerted me to the pedigree of Cheval Blanc’s old vintages is not the legendary 1947 nor the fabled 1921, but the 1934.
Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2019
Two thousand eighteen was one of the most dramatic growing seasons in recent memory. Hail, persistent rain and blistering summertime temperatures tested the resilience of vineyard managers and winemakers throughout the entire year. Perhaps most importantly, though, 2018 comes at a significant inflection point in Bordeaux’s history. So, how did the wines turn out?
The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Apr 2019
A unique vertical of Rauzan-Ségla that spanned more than a century was the catalyst for this in-depth château profile, which charts the course of the Margaux Second Growth from its origins under Pierre de Rauzan to the present day under Nicolas Audebert. Everything you ever wanted to know about Rauzan-Ségla should be here.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, Apr 2019
These are the new releases from Château Latour, which since 2012 has released their wines only when they are deemed ready to drink rather than following the typical Bordeaux schedule for bottled wines. The exception is the 2008 Grand Vin, which is essentially being re-released this year, whereas the 2014 Pauillac and 2013 Forts de Latour have not been available previously. I tasted these wines during a visit to the property in April 2019.
An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2019
A bottle of 1990 La Dominique opened my eyes to the joys of Saint-Émilion, yet recent vintages have perplexingly blown hot and cold. Last year I visited the estate to discover more and conduct a vertical tasting that would either confirm or refute my misgivings.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, Apr 2019
Although the 1980s were comparatively underwhelming for Ausone, this bottle is among the most enjoyable that I have encountered from that period.
Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2019
Sailing into port this week is Malartic-Lagravière. Resurrected by the Bonnie family since the late-1990s, it has become one of the finest Pessac-Léognan estates. This piece examines its nautical-tinged history, present techniques and reviews both recent and mature vintages.
What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015
featured, France: Bordeaux
, March 2019
Sauternes might not be fashionable at the moment; however, the wines remain quite brilliant and often represent great value. The first in a series of verticals looks at one of the finest properties, Château Suduiraut, with one of the most comprehensive verticals you will ever read spanning three centuries.