Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2021
After an uneven vintage in 2017, Bordeaux was buzzing with anticipation over the 2018s. To be sure, the wines were showy from barrel, but tasting en primeur is always a moving target. The wines are of course very young and sensitive to atmospheric changes as well as other variables. Now that the 2018s have been bottled, do they live up to expectations?
Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2021
Following the vertical that I conducted at the estate back in 2018, I recently joined Emmanuel Cruse via Zoom for a small tasting of recent vintages of “The Fives”, including the 2000 d’Issan that was not included in my The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 article.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2021 New Releases
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2021
In this week's Cellar Favorite column, we offer two completely separate and independent views on the 2021 releases from Château Latour.
The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2021
The 2018 Bordeaux vintage produced some incredible wines, but is it truly a legendary year? In the largest in-bottle report that I have ever published with over 1,000 wines reviewed, I answer that question and explain the reasons underlying its successes and shortcomings.
Cellar Favorite: 1928 Calon-Ségur
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2021
According to the Vinous database, which likes to keep a tab on these things, I have tasted 1928s from 22 Bordeaux châteaux, which is 22 more than I ever imagined.
Cellar Favorite: 1967 Château d’Yquem Sauternes Premier Grand Cru
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2021
I have been fortunate to taste the legendary Château d’Yquem a number of times since the early 1980s but hadn’t had the opportunity to actually drink it in many years. That was until a generous friend brought a surprise bottle along to an indulgent Château Petrus vertical this fall, to be shared among a small group of wine lovers at the outstanding Peppercorn’s Grill in Hartford, Connecticut.
Choose Wisely: Château Sérilhan 2008–2017
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jan 2021
Bordeaux is often criticized for charging a king’s ransom for its top wines. In reality, it is a vast cradle of quality that can offer unbeatable value, depending on how far you are willing to venture beyond the famous names. Some of the price tags dangling from ordinary Burgundy Villages reinforce the argument that wine lovers get much more bang for their buck in Bordeaux than in the Côte d’Or. However, the plethora of châteaux means that consumers can easily become overwhelmed, which is why it is important to shine the spotlight on top performers from lesser-known names, away from the Grand Cru Classés.
Lagrange 1959-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Dec 2020
Suntory’s acquisition of Château Lagrange in 1983 saw an under-performer blossom into one of the most consistent and widely-appreciated wines of Saint-Julien. This article details its history, terroir and winemaking, plus a complete vertical from 1983 to 2015.
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Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017
France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Oct 2020
Larcis Ducasse is now regarded as one of the leading Saint-Émilion estates, not surprising given its outstanding terroir. However, as this vertical back to 1945 proved, success came late compared to its peers.
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Cellar Favorite: 1919 Montrose
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Sep 2020
Obscure Bordeaux vintages are like the detritus of odds and ends you find at the back of the drawer you never open. The more forgotten or derided the annus horribilus, the more it piques my interest.