Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2021
One of the most revered château in Bordeaux, this article on La Mission Haut-Brion presents both a historical and contemporary insight courtesy of a Q&A with winemaker Jean-Philippe Delmas, plus tasting notes back to the 1920s.
Left Bank on the Right: Jean Faure 2007–2018
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2021
Jean Faure is a bit of an anomaly in Saint-Émilion, an estate built around Cabernet Franc instead of Merlot. This was the first time that I conducted a vertical of recent vintages, and it led to a better understanding of the wines.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Léoville Las-Cases
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Aug 2021
I admit it. I like the classics. Whether it is food, wine, music, art, fashion or anything else, my tastes have long been drawn to the classics, which I define as things that have lasting value over time. Those things that never go out of style. When it comes to wine, Léoville Las Cases is a classic.
So Chic, So Listrac: Fourcas Hosten
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2021
The Bordelais have always been the epitome of chic – in the way they carry themselves, in their deportment, in how they dress irrespective of age. They cannot countenance shabbiness. Perhaps at home they slob around in tatty jogging bottoms and flip-flops, but the boulevards of Bordeaux are a veritable crisscross of catwalks and luxury boutiques. Perhaps then, it is unsurprising that fashion houses have been lured to Bordeaux and acquired some its most famous châteaux.
Two + Two = Trouble
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jul 2021
The recent announcement that Cheval Blanc and Ausone would not participate in the forthcoming Saint-Émilion Classification caused shockwaves across Bordeaux and beyond. I examine both sides of the argument as the appellation comes to terms with a classification without two of its star players.
Cellar Favorite: 2003 Larrivaux
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2021
Readers do not have to shell out for the top names to enjoy the wines, as proven by a 2003 Larrivaux recently served blind by proprietor Bérangère Tesseron, the ‘better half’ of Basile Tesseron at neighbouring Lafon-Rochet.
Cellar Favorite: 1996 Lynch-Moussas
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jun 2021
Much of aristocratic Pauillac has become too expensive for many wine-lovers in recent years. That classification back in 1855 went straight to its head. Yet, there are gems to be discovered…if you know where to look.
2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2021
Two thousand-twenty was a year of ups and downs. A number of challenges during the growing season kept vineyard managers and winemakers on their toes, just as the world grappled with the most serious health crisis in living memory. Now that the 2020s are being released en primeur, the Bordelais refer to the vintage as the third in a ‘trilogy’ that includes 2018 and 2019, but it’s not always easy to separate the marketing buzz from reality. How did the wines turn out?
Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020
France: Bordeaux, featured
, May 2021
Twenty-twenty was a year that turned out like no other, yet Nature ploughs on regardless, another Bordeaux vintage, another primeur and another report from barrel. Does 2020 complete the triumvirate? Does it really belong up there with the greatest vintages? As usual, I ignored all the hype and tell it how I find it.
His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2021
Jean-Antoine Nony was one of the first winemakers I ever interviewed for Wine-Journal in 2003. Almost two decades later, I finally return to Grand Mayne to conduct a comprehensive vertical and discover more about this ascendant Saint-Émilion estate.