The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2019
A unique vertical of Rauzan-Ségla that spanned more than a century was the catalyst for this in-depth château profile, which charts the course of the Margaux Second Growth from its origins under Pierre de Rauzan to the present day under Nicolas Audebert. Everything you ever wanted to know about Rauzan-Ségla should be here.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2019
These are the new releases from Château Latour, which since 2012 has released their wines only when they are deemed ready to drink rather than following the typical Bordeaux schedule for bottled wines. The exception is the 2008 Grand Vin, which is essentially being re-released this year, whereas the 2014 Pauillac and 2013 Forts de Latour have not been available previously. I tasted these wines during a visit to the property in April 2019.
An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2019
A bottle of 1990 La Dominique opened my eyes to the joys of Saint-Émilion, yet recent vintages have perplexingly blown hot and cold. Last year I visited the estate to discover more and conduct a vertical tasting that would either confirm or refute my misgivings.
Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Apr 2019
Although the 1980s were comparatively underwhelming for Ausone, this bottle is among the most enjoyable that I have encountered from that period.
Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2019
Sailing into port this week is Malartic-Lagravière. Resurrected by the Bonnie family since the late-1990s, it has become one of the finest Pessac-Léognan estates. This piece examines its nautical-tinged history, present techniques and reviews both recent and mature vintages.
What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
Sauternes might not be fashionable at the moment; however, the wines remain quite brilliant and often represent great value. The first in a series of verticals looks at one of the finest properties, Château Suduiraut, with one of the most comprehensive verticals you will ever read spanning three centuries.
A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
The Bordeaux 2009s were hailed upon release during a unique primeur campaign, though the crucial test would come when the wines reached 10 years of age. Now it’s time to put them to that test. Two tastings, one sighted and one blind, confirmed magnificent highs...yet no vintage should be beyond criticism.
Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
How did the admiration of an estuary view result in the resurrection of one of the most singular estates on the Left Bank? The story of Jean Gautreau is fascinating and worth telling in this, the 50th year since he bought Sociando-Mallet.
Cellar Favorite: 1869, 1879 & 1893 d’Yquem
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, March 2019
It was not until the 1930s that tastes began shifting away from sweet wines to dry reds, though d’Yquem will never relinquish its status as Bordeaux’s best sweet wine, a reputation consecrated by the 1855 classification as its sole Premier Cru Supérieur.
Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2019
Sometimes these forgotten and frequently traduced periods are not as fallow as you might presume, especially in this Manichean age where we prefer to see things in black and white.