Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2019
Sometimes these forgotten and frequently traduced periods are not as fallow as you might presume, especially in this Manichean age where we prefer to see things in black and white.
Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2019
Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.
The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2019
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was praised to high heavens during en primeur, but the real test of quality is once the wines are finished and bottled. Is it truly one of the great modern-day vintages?
Cellar Favorite: 2005 Larcis Ducasse
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2019
Larcis Ducasse remains one of the truly great, reasonably priced wines of Bordeaux. I was once again reminded of that when I tasted the 2005 recently. Almost shockingly young, tannic and tightly wound for a wine of its age, the 2005 is positively stellar.
2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2019
The bottled 2016s capture every bit of the potential I sensed when I started tasting the wines from barrel, prior to en primeur, in January 2017. I found many 2016s to be even better from bottle than they were during the spring futures campaign. The best 2016s are powerful, richly layered, vibrant and stunningly beautiful, not to mention incredibly delicious and alluring. For so many wines and estates, 2016 is an epic vintage.
Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2019
True, Brane-Cantenac has had its ups and downs over the years, but it is now creating some of its best ever wines. In one of the most comprehensive verticals ever written, I examine the estate from its formation to the present day and what influences the character of this singular Margaux.
Cellar Favorites: Coutet Cuvée Madame
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2019
An unexpected message pops up on my Smartphone. It is from Aline Baly, daughter of co-proprietor Dominique Baly, enquiring whether I can meet for an impromptu tasting of eight vintages of Coutet’s Cuvée Madame. The odds are slim. I am flying back to Blighty at some ungodly hour the following morning and I am midway through a marathon tasting. Then again, this is not just any Sauternes, but an elusive and fascinating bottling.
Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2018
I recently participated in two tastings connected with one of the most famous dynasties in Bordeaux: the Cordier family. Désiré Cordier embarked on a shopping spree for Bordeaux estates in that era, when real estate prices were depressed by a run of poor vintages and World War I. Amongst Cordier’s acquisitions, the other famous property purchased is Gruaud Larose, which came into their hands in 1917 and 1935, since back then, the estate was divided.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 Château de Fieuzal Rouge
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2018
Old bottles of Graves have been regrettably few and far between. When I do encounter mature Graves from the 1940s and the 1970s, they always remind me how well they age, how their qualities are overlooked vis-à-vis other Bordeaux appellations.
Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Nov 2018
Lafleur is a property that I have researched and written about extensively over the years. And yet something enigmatic remains about this Pomerol château. This article lifts the lid on its history, the vineyard, its winemaker, and the Robin and Guinaudeau families, charting the progress of its wines over several decades courtesy of two extraordinary verticals and some spellbinding wines.