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Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016

featured, France: Burgundy, France

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.

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Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: 1979-2016

featured, France: Burgundy, France

Stephen Tanzer, Feb 2019

Joseph Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc is an oxymoron of a Burgundy: an insider’s wine that’s normally made in generous quantities. While some wine oenophiles may turn up their noses at the very idea of white wine from Beaune—not to mention the appellation in particular, as it possesses no Grand Crus, red or white—this Premier Cru is way more interesting, and serious, than it has any right to be.

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The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Everyone is at the mercy of Mother Nature, including the most famous domaine in Burgundy. Late spring frost denied Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s three releases of their 2016 vintage, but how do the surviving crus fare now that they are in bottle? Do they finish on a major or minor chord?

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Vertical Tasting of Louis Jadot’s Corton Pougets

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Feb 2019

Jadot’s perfumed, distinctly feminine Corton Grand Cru—a red wine from white wine soil—has established a long track record for graceful evolution in bottle.

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Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

From whatever perspective you examine this Clos de la Roche, at least on the basis of this solitary encounter, I can only conclude that it is a perfect wine.

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Cellar Favorite: 2005 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2019

There aren’t too many values left in Burgundy. Frédéric Mugnier’s Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru is one of them. Let’s be clear, Clos de la Maréchale is not an inexpensive wine by any means, but it does offer tremendous character and plenty of Mugnier finesse, especially in the best vintages.

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Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Jun 2019

The largest single owner of land in Clos de Vougeot is making some of its best wines today. Director François Labet’s special bottling from vines planted in 1910 has been an essence of this legendary grand cru in recent years.

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Cellar Favorite: 2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Bourgogne Blanc

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

I am at Domaine Rousseau and ask Cyrielle Rousseau about the mysterious Bourgogne Blanc. She confirms that her family produced it for a number of years from a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin, solely for personal consumption or to give to friends and associates. They no longer make it.

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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

Winemakers’ prayers were answered when the 2017 Burgundy growing season bestowed them with normal yields, refilling cellars that were getting accustomed to being empty. But how good are the reds? Should you form an orderly queue to secure your allocation and if so, what growers or appellations represent the best potential value?

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2019 Burgundy Verticals

France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Jan 2019

All of the producers I visited in December presented their wines in the same way: from youngest to oldest, with the bottles uncorked shortly before the tasting and not decanted. Beginning with the youngest vintage and working backward has always been my preferred approach to vertical tastings, for the simple reason that this order allows me to understand how wines develop with bottle age.