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Vinous Table: Hostellerie de Levernois, Beaune, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2020

The Hostellerie’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a terrific choice for readers who want a more relaxed experience. A spacious room, verdant views and tables set far apart add to a feeling of serenity that is pretty relaxing for this city boy.

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Cellar Favorite: 1957 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

Over the last two decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or. There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet.

Clos des lambrays taupenot 2014

Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

I had tasted many vintages from barrel but never the finished article until a friend from the Far East invited me to choose any bottle from the enormous wine list at Maison de Colombier in Beaune. I knew instantly which one I wanted: the 2014 Clos des Lambrays from Taupenot-Merme. And it had only taken me 20 years!

Corton charlemagne oct 2018

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

Burgundy can be confounding at the best of times, both in a positive and negative sense. For many, that’s part of its allure. The 2018 vintage sprung many surprises, thankfully many of them positive. The bigger question is whether it is a harbinger of things to come.

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Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Dec 2019

The finest vintages made by Dominique Lafon at his family domaine clearly demonstrate that Meursault’s mineral-driven premier cru Les Perrières is capable of producing wines with grand cru mineral intensity, precision, nuance and longevity.

Musigny mugnier 2013 cork

Cellar Favorite: 2013 Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Dec 2019

When I visited the domaine in Chambolle-Musigny in November 2019, Mugnier poured me his latest vintage to see the light of day.

Nothing but oak in vincent dauvissat's cellar

Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Nov 2019

Vincent Dauvissat’s stunningly consistent grand cru Les Clos is a textbook example of the complexity, minerality and longevity Chardonnay can achieve in the exceptional terroirs and cool northerly climate of Chablis. This vertical encompassed a remarkable range of wines all the way back to 1983.

Ponsot montluisant 1994

Cellar Favorite: 1994 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Nov 2019

It is a pity that Aligoté must reside in the shadow of Chardonnay. Too often it is dismissed, not only by consumers, but winemakers themselves since many “forget” to show me their Bourgogne Aligoté during cellar visits. Thankfully in recent years there has been a reappraisal of Aligoté spearheaded by Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille and the grape is finally receiving due respect.

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Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy

Stephen Tanzer, Oct 2019

Guillaume d’Angerville makes one of the Côte de Beaune’s true icon wines from an ideally situated walled vineyard whose borders have not changed for at least 500 years. His methods are uncomplicated: fanatical attention to detail in the vineyard and in the winery. This vertical tasting made it clear that the Clos des Ducs is frequently a wine of grand cru intensity, aromatic complexity and staying power.

Burgundy 2016 musigny

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

The 2016 Burgundy vintage is infamous for the devastating late spring frosts and inclement weather. Yet the surviving fruit enjoyed a blissful second half of the growing season. The reds are small in quantity but supposedly big in quality. So how do they shape up when assessed blind?