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Remembering Gianfranco Soldera
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Apr 2019
In a brilliant career that spanned five decades, Gianfranco Soldera established himself as one of the world’s most inspired and iconic winemakers. His untimely passing in an accident last February leaves an immeasurable void. Soldera’s wines remain an enduring legacy of his remarkable life and complex, rich personality.
2014 Brunello di Montalcino and 2013 Riservas
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, March 2019
The 2014 Brunellos and the 2013 Riservas are polar opposites, the products of one of the most challenging vintages in memory (2014) and a very good, classic year (2013). And yet, both vintages have something to offer, if in completely different ways; the much-better-than-expected 2014s boast early appeal and can be enjoyed now while the 2013 Riservas mature in the cellar.
Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Mar 2019
This year I tasted more wines than ever before from the various appellations that comprise Central Tuscany. A rediscovery of indigenous varieties, greater focus on sustainable farming and the continued emergence of small, artisan estates is resulting in a wider range of wines across all styles than at any time in the past that I can remember. Readers will find everything from the racy, international wines of the coast to small production Syrahs made with whole clusters and aged in terra cotta, and everything in between.
Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time
Italy: Tuscany, featured, Italy
, Feb 2019
As Vinous readers know, I have long championed Chianti Classico as a source for pedigreed, ageworthy wines that the average consumer can still afford. That is, thankfully, still true. In 2015 and 2016, wine lovers will find two genuinely great back to back vintages that arrive precisely at a time when producers are seeking greater finesse and precision. The results are nothing less than thrilling.
Vinous Table: Osteria Le Logge, Siena, Italy
Vinous Table, Italy: Tuscany
, Oct 2018
Tuscany is littered with dozens of exceptional and even world-class wine estates. When it comes to dining, though, things get much more dicey. It is not always easy to cut through the plethora of anonymous restaurants serving indifferent fare to the unsuspecting tourist crowd and find places that excel with both delicious, well-prepared food and a carefully thought out wine program. Located steps away from Siena’s Piazza del Campo, Osteria Le Logge is one of the bright spots in Tuscany’s food and wine scene.
Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino 2001 – 2013
Italy: Tuscany, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Oct 2018
Despite its short history, Le Potazzine is universally regarded as one of Montalcino’s top dozen or so wineries. The estate is known for remarkably refined Brunellos that speak of vintage, place and grape variety with utmost precision.
Rocca di Montegrossi: Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013
Italy: Tuscany, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Aug 2018
From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful, yet elegant wines imbued with real character. This vertical tasting of the Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino once again showed the pedigree Sangiovese is capable of in the hands of an inspired grower guided by a desire to make wines that express the essence of site and vintage.
Cellar Favorite: 1998 Fontodi Chianti Classico
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Tuscany
, Aug 2018
Fontodi’s 1998 Chianti Classico reminds me of why I love these wines so much. At age twenty, the 1998 is simply glorious, with plenty of dried cherry, tobacco, saddle leather, licorice, dried cedar and smoke overtones wrapped into a classic, mid-weight frame.
Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Apr 2018
Readers will find much to admire in these current releases from Tuscany’s Maremma, Montepulciano and smaller neighboring appellations. As always, it is the extraordinary diversity of regions, microclimates and varieties that define Italy’s rich oenological landscape. Best of all, with few exceptions, pricing for so many wines remains quite modest in today’s world.
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Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek '13s, Surprising '12 Riservas
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Apr 2018
The taut, refined 2013 Brunellos offer early appeal and considerable aging potential. A surprising number of producers I visited or spoke to told me they believed the 2013 vintage to be close in quality to the much more famous 2010. The other good news for wine lovers this year is just how good the 2012 Brunello Riservas are. In fact, off the top of my head I cannot remember when I so thoroughly enjoyed tasting one Brunello Riserva after another.