The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2019
A unique vertical of Rauzan-Ségla that spanned more than a century was the catalyst for this in-depth château profile, which charts the course of the Margaux Second Growth from its origins under Pierre de Rauzan to the present day under Nicolas Audebert. Everything you ever wanted to know about Rauzan-Ségla should be here.
Beaulieu’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve: 1965–2016
United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Apr 2019
Beaulieu Vineyard’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet is California’s first cult Cabernet. Adamantly Médoc-like in its earlier decades, it has evolved with the times. Recent vintages are as remarkable as ever, if in a more modern style.
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Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
This past December seemed an ideal time for me to taste a vertical collection of the Domaine des Lambrays’ historic Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays going back to the 1960s. Under the steady hand of widely respected estate manager/winemaker Thierry Brouin, the Clos des Lambrays has been restored to Grand Cru status after decades of neglect.
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Joseph Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2019
The Roty family’s Charmes-Chambertin from ancient vines has established a half-century track record as one of Burgundy’s monumental collectibles. My extensive vertical tasting of this bottling in December was also a celebration of a very private family—and the ghost in the room was the formidable personality of the late Joseph Roty, who was largely responsible for creating the “Roty style.”
Vertical Tasting of Louis Jadot’s Corton Pougets
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2019
Jadot’s perfumed, distinctly feminine Corton Grand Cru—a red wine from white wine soil—has established a long track record for graceful evolution in bottle.
Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jan 2019
Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.
Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Jun 2019
The largest single owner of land in Clos de Vougeot is making some of its best wines today. Director François Labet’s special bottling from vines planted in 1910 has been an essence of this legendary grand cru in recent years.
Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jan 2019
True, Brane-Cantenac has had its ups and downs over the years, but it is now creating some of its best ever wines. In one of the most comprehensive verticals ever written, I examine the estate from its formation to the present day and what influences the character of this singular Margaux.
Ceretto Barbaresco Asili: 1974-2014
Italy: Piedmont, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Piedmont
, Dec 2018
Asili is arguably one of Italy’s greatest vineyards, and Ceretto owns probably its best section, the bricco at the top of the hill. Ceretto’s Barbaresco Asili ages splendidly and can rightly claim its place among Italy’s most distinctive red wines.
Port Is For Life: Symington Vintage & Tawny Ports
Portugal, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Fortified Wines & Spirits, Fortified Wines & Spirits
, Dec 2018
“Port is for life, not just for Christmas.” True, though I am sure sales figures would confirm that more bottles of port, in all its multifarious forms - Vintage, Ruby, Tawny, Single Quinta, Colheita, White or Crusted - are ceremoniously passed to the left over the festive period than at any other time of the year. So it would be remiss of me not to offer Vinous readers an early Christmas present in the shape of a port-themed article.