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Saturday Morning: Larcis Ducasse 1945-2017
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Oct 2020
Larcis Ducasse is now regarded as one of the leading Saint-Émilion estates, not surprising given its outstanding terroir. However, as this vertical back to 1945 proved, success came late compared to its peers.
Taupenot-Merme: Mazoyères-Chambertin 2002-2017
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2020
Taupenot-Merme has become one of the leading Morey-based producers over the last decade. This article examines their crown jewel of Mazoyères-Chambertin from 2017 back to 2002.
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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Aug 2020
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage might have been born with a halo above its cherubic head, but you cannot see a halo if blindfolded. This report sees the 2016s re-examined blind at the annual “Southwold” tasting.
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The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo
Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: North, featured
, Jul 2020
When we think of Italy’s highly successful experiments with Bordeaux blends, it’s often the coast of Tuscany that comes to mind. But what if I told you that one of the country’s grandest wines hails from the north instead, in the region of Trentino? I invite you to explore the past, present and future of Tenuta San Leonardo through one of the most riveting verticals ever assembled.
The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2020
What is the place for a retrospective on Petrus in a time of global pandemic and economic hardship? This article has been in suspended animation since January 2019, when London’s Hide restaurant witnessed one of the most unforgettable wine dinners in recent memory. But finally, after 18 months, I decided that these rare and precious wines should be written up. First of all, as the only journalist in attendance, I had a duty to formally record a tasting that might never happen again. Secondly, life goes on; you cannot put everything on hold forever.
2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Jul 2020
The annual presentation of new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in early March was the last tasting I attended before lockdown. Initially I thought I would publish this article as a bookend, when things returned to normal. Back then, I could have never imagined where we would be today. After reading Neal Martin’s article Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle chronicling the London edition, I decided to shamelessly rip off his format. So, here you have my version…
Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jul 2020
Continuing my focus on Bordeaux wines that offer both quality and value, my final château visit before lockdown was to Meyney in Saint-Estèphe. How has their wine improved so much in recent years?
Vintage Retrospective: The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernets
United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jun 2020
Sandwiched between three cool years and three growing seasons affected by late-season heat spikes, 2001 has proven to be a Napa Valley classic for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. The better wines are in fine form today.
Château Siran 1918-2008
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Jun 2020
The Margaux appellation is home to several châteaux that are upping their game. This article focuses on one of those, Château Siran, with a vertical tasting that looks back over a century.
Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets
United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2020
The Vinous vintage chart rates 2010 as the top vintage for Napa Valley Cabernet between 1991 and 2013. As my recent retrospective tasting showed, the 2010s are overdelivering on their early promise.