.jpg?1597347296)
Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Aug 2020
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage might have been born with a halo above its cherubic head, but you cannot see a halo if blindfolded. This report sees the 2016s re-examined blind at the annual “Southwold” tasting.
.png?1595950996)
The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo
featured, Italy: North, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2020
When we think of Italy’s highly successful experiments with Bordeaux blends, it’s often the coast of Tuscany that comes to mind. But what if I told you that one of the country’s grandest wines hails from the north instead, in the region of Trentino? I invite you to explore the past, present and future of Tenuta San Leonardo through one of the most riveting verticals ever assembled.
The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2020
What is the place for a retrospective on Petrus in a time of global pandemic and economic hardship? This article has been in suspended animation since January 2019, when London’s Hide restaurant witnessed one of the most unforgettable wine dinners in recent memory. But finally, after 18 months, I decided that these rare and precious wines should be written up. First of all, as the only journalist in attendance, I had a duty to formally record a tasting that might never happen again. Secondly, life goes on; you cannot put everything on hold forever.
2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work
featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2020
The annual presentation of new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in early March was the last tasting I attended before lockdown. Initially I thought I would publish this article as a bookend, when things returned to normal. Back then, I could have never imagined where we would be today. After reading Neal Martin’s article Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle chronicling the London edition, I decided to shamelessly rip off his format. So, here you have my version…
Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jul 2020
Continuing my focus on Bordeaux wines that offer both quality and value, my final château visit before lockdown was to Meyney in Saint-Estèphe. How has their wine improved so much in recent years?
Vintage Retrospective: The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernets
featured, United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2020
Sandwiched between three cool years and three growing seasons affected by late-season heat spikes, 2001 has proven to be a Napa Valley classic for Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. The better wines are in fine form today.
Château Siran 1918-2008
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2020
The Margaux appellation is home to several châteaux that are upping their game. This article focuses on one of those, Château Siran, with a vertical tasting that looks back over a century.
Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets
featured, United States: California, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2020
The Vinous vintage chart rates 2010 as the top vintage for Napa Valley Cabernet between 1991 and 2013. As my recent retrospective tasting showed, the 2010s are overdelivering on their early promise.
Hopes and Dreams: Canon Chaigneau 1998-2019
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2020
The impact of COVID-19 is not evenly spread across society, nor across wine estates. Imagine you were on the cusp of buying a small Bordeaux château when suddenly the world is in lockdown. What happens then? This is the story of Canon Chaigneau.
Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2020
Pavie-Macquin is one of the great success stories of Saint-Émilion. This retrospective going all the way back to 1928 provided a remarkable opportunity to witness the evolution of the property from underachiever to superstar, with all of the highs and lows that invariably accompany an extensive vertical that spans epic, average and challenging vintages. For the occasion, estate manager Nicolas Thienpont and consulting oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt gathered every wine they have made at Pavie-Macquin, with a few surprises thrown into the mix.