Faiveley’s Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley: 1986-2015
featured, France: Burgundy
, March 2019
The new generation at Faiveley has taken some of the tannic edges off the estate’s outsized Clos des Cortons, making this powerfully built, long-lived Burgundy more palatable in its youth. This vertical back to 1986 provided a unique opportunity to follow the arc of Faiveley’s flagship wine over four decades.
German Riesling 2017: No Pfalz Sense of Security
Germany, featured
, Mar 2019
Following a growing season that their 20th-century predecessors would have considered an impossible dream come true, Pfalz vintners took nothing for granted – and were handsomely rewarded.
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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis
featured, France: Burgundy
, March 2019
Morey-Saint-Denis does not get its fair share of coverage vis-à-vis other Burgundy appellations, so when three Morey-based producers showcased their wines in London, I looked forward to redressing the imbalance. That was the plan. It didn’t quite work out that way...
A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
The Bordeaux 2009s were hailed upon release during a unique primeur campaign, though the crucial test would come when the wines reached 10 years of age. Now it’s time to put them to that test. Two tastings, one sighted and one blind, confirmed magnificent highs...yet no vintage should be beyond criticism.
Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV Vineyard 1999-2016
featured, Canada
, March 2019
Cave Spring Cellars was among the first estates in Canada to believe in the future of vinifera varieties in a country deemed too cold for them to survive. The estate makes a plethora of outstanding wines, none better than their world-class CSV Riesling.
A Tribute to Beppe Rinaldi at NoMad
Italy: Piedmont, featured
, March 2019
Barolo has lost many of its older guard over the last decade or so. But Beppe Rinaldi’s passing last summer somehow felt different, almost as if it signified the end of an entire chapter in the history of Barolo. That, along with the rarity of the wines gave this retrospective tasting a real feeling of emotional gravitas. The wines were truly spectacular, but as so often happens on nights like this, the shared moments were even more special.
Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Mar 2019
This year I tasted more wines than ever before from the various appellations that comprise Central Tuscany. A rediscovery of indigenous varieties, greater focus on sustainable farming and the continued emergence of small, artisan estates is resulting in a wider range of wines across all styles than at any time in the past that I can remember. Readers will find everything from the racy, international wines of the coast to small production Syrahs made with whole clusters and aged in terra cotta, and everything in between.
Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
How did the admiration of an estuary view result in the resurrection of one of the most singular estates on the Left Bank? The story of Jean Gautreau is fascinating and worth telling in this, the 50th year since he bought Sociando-Mallet.
Bottles Never Forgotten - Burgundy Edition
featured, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2019
Imagine if you asked 102 Burgundy winemakers: What is the most memorable bottle of wine you have ever drunk? Imagine no longer. And find out which winemaker never drinks wine.
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Joseph Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2019
The Roty family’s Charmes-Chambertin from ancient vines has established a half-century track record as one of Burgundy’s monumental collectibles. My extensive vertical tasting of this bottling in December was also a celebration of a very private family—and the ghost in the room was the formidable personality of the late Joseph Roty, who was largely responsible for creating the “Roty style.”