Vinous Table: Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2021
Le Relais de Saulx served one of the best evening meals I had in Burgundy last year. I enjoyed its cozy and informal ambiance; it’s one of several recent additions to the Beaune restaurant scene that is refreshingly relaxed and unstuffy.
Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa
South Africa, featured
, Apr 2021
Postponed several times due to matters beyond my control, thankfully the intermittently showstopping wines of South Africa were worth the wait, proving that the pandemic has not slowed down the momentum of the Cape.
Abruzzo and Molise: More Than Meets the Eye
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Apr 2021
The time has come to dig into Abruzzo and Molise, regions that offer everything from easy-drinking wines to world-class bottles, all while delivering terrific value. My recent tastings suggest the wines have come a long way - and this is just the beginning.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Santo Spirito Cuvée delle Vigne Niche
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Italy: Center & South
, Apr 2021
I remember quite well the first time I tasted the 2014 Santo Spirito Cuvée delle Vigne Niche Bianco. My eyes lit up the second I put my nose to the glass.
Wiston Estate & The Trouble With Dreams
United Kingdom, featured
, Apr 2021
Overseeing the wines of Wiston and his own label, Trouble With Dreams, Dermot Sugrue is one of the UK’s most talented and intriguing winemakers. Anyone believing that English sparkling wine should not be taken seriously should read this in-depth and revealing article.
Beyond Wine: Album Review of Black Honey – Written & Directed
Beyond Wine, United Kingdom
, Mar 2021
I have been slightly obsessed with Brighton-based Black Honey for a while now. They have the whole package. Written & Directed is a step up from their impressive eponymous debut in 2018. Everything is bigger, louder and bolder.
Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Mar 2021
After an uneven vintage in 2017, Bordeaux was buzzing with anticipation over the 2018s. To be sure, the wines were showy from barrel, but tasting en primeur is always a moving target. The wines are of course very young and sensitive to atmospheric changes as well as other variables. Now that the 2018s have been bottled, do they live up to expectations?
Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2021
Following the vertical that I conducted at the estate back in 2018, I recently joined Emmanuel Cruse via Zoom for a small tasting of recent vintages of “The Fives”, including the 2000 d’Issan that was not included in my The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 article.
Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2021
Beaune would not be Beaune without Ma Cuisine. For sure, I missed the atmosphere that makes Ma Cuisine what it is, but it will return with flocks of customers once COVID-19 is in the rearview mirror.
Interpreting Chenin Blanc
featured, France: Loire
, Mar 2021
In my first Loire report for Vinous, I take the pulse of Chenin producers with a focus on current releases from Savennières and Vouvray.