Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016
featured, France: Burgundy, France
, Feb 2019
Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.
Alsace: The 2017s And Late-Released 2016s, Part 2
France: Alsace, featured, France
, Feb 2019
Alsace, one of the most blessed winegrowing regions in the world, is in the midst of a generational change. Young growers are bringing a fresh mindset to the region’s viticulture and winemaking, its many outstanding wine grapes and its first-rate terroirs.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Ravenswood Pickberry Vineyard
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, United States: California
, Feb 2019
Joel Peterson’s Ravenswood wines have a track record of aging brilliantly, so I was intrigued to check in on this 30+ year-old Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc-based blend.
Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Feb 2019
I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.
2015 Barolo…The Bigger Picture
Piedmont, Italy, Italy: Piedmont, featured
, Feb 2019
Barolo lovers have become spoiled over the last fifteen years or so. While 2015 is clearly a mixed vintage, in any other previous era there is little doubt it would have been considered outstanding. Readers will find a number of dazzling 2015s, even if quality is uneven across the board. More importantly, though, the number of young growers and re-born older estates making compelling wines is greater than at any time since I first visited Piedmont in 1997. Quite simply, Barolo, and Piedmont more broadly, is going through a remarkable boom. I came away from my tastings more energized than ever.
To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017
New Zealand, featured
, Feb 2019
Kumeu River is New Zealand's greatest Chardonnay producer, one that is genuinely world class. Following the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted, this article traces the story of the Brajkovich family, details their vineyards and philosophies, to find out how they make such bloody good Chardonnay.
Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: 1979-2016
featured, France: Burgundy, France
, Feb 2019
Joseph Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc is an oxymoron of a Burgundy: an insider’s wine that’s normally made in generous quantities. While some wine oenophiles may turn up their noses at the very idea of white wine from Beaune—not to mention the appellation in particular, as it possesses no Grand Crus, red or white—this Premier Cru is way more interesting, and serious, than it has any right to be.
Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2019
Sometimes these forgotten and frequently traduced periods are not as fallow as you might presume, especially in this Manichean age where we prefer to see things in black and white.
Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France
Vinous Table, France
, Feb 2019
Ingersheim’s Taverne Alsacienne is one of the best easygoing, reasonably priced country restaurants you will eat at anywhere in the world. Its refined simplicity, great food and outstanding wine choices make it a must for food and wine lovers.
Inspire Napa Valley 2018
napa, United States: California, featured
, Feb 2019
I was thrilled to serve on the Honorary Committee for the inaugural edition of Inspire Napa Valley, along with Brad Grimes, Ray Isle, Samantha Rudd, David & Monica Stevens and Fran Tarkenton. The brainchild of Kerrin Laz, Inspire Napa Valley is a weekend of fabulous tastings, seminars and dinners held to benefit Alzheimers’ research. In its first edition, Inspire Napa Valley raised over $1 million.