Xaya pulpo

Vinous Table: Xaya, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France

Vinous Table, France

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

If you are taking a vacation in Biarritz or Saint-Jean-de-Luz, make a reservation at Xaya. One mouthful is all it takes to understand why their tables are in such demand.

Moulin a vent post harvest copy

Beaujolais: If You Want Value - You’ve Got It

France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured

Josh Raynolds, Oct 2019

While prices for French wines with historic pedigree are often dramatically rising, Beaujolais, for the most part, continues to provide a respite from an overheated market. That, plus a string of recent vintages with average quality level ranging from very good to outstanding, makes Beaujolais one of the most intriguing regions in the world for savvy wine lovers.

Vosne romanee 1971 arnoux cover

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.

Talbot 1 copy

A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010

France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

In December last year, Château Talbot celebrated a century of ownership by the Cordier family with a vertical tasting at the property. This article assesses the vintages and where they place Talbot in the Saint-Julien hierarchy as a new chapter opens.

Zoko moko seabass

Vinous Table: Zoko Moko, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France

Vinous Table, France

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

I looked forward to Zoko Moko more than any other restaurant during my time in the Pays Basque. Many had sung its praises, and eating out in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is always a pleasure.

Georges mugneret's clos vougeot wines close to the chateau copy

Mugneret-Gibourg’s Clos Vougeot 1984 - 2015

France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Stephen Tanzer, Oct 2019

An extensive tasting of their top Grand Cru this spring demonstrated that sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret have quietly and methodically taken their famous father’s estate to greater heights through steady improvements in the vineyards and in the winery.

Doliveiras bottles

Madeira: Fortified for All Occasions

featured, Portugal

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

Following my look at ancient Madeira earlier this year, we shift the focus towards younger Madeira and more recent bottlings, many of which offer great value together with the joy that this fortified wine can bring.

Marques de riscal 1952 1964

Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

It was a pleasure to take a break during a period of alternating between Bordeaux and Burgundy and attend a tasting of one of my favorite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal.

Image (110)

Remembering Jean-Bernard Delmas

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Oct 2019

Jean-Bernard Delmas, who passed away at the age of 83 on 3 October 2019, was a giant figure in Bordeaux and especially the Graves. In 1960 Delmas succeeded his father, Georges Delmas, as régisseur of Château Haut-Brion, not just a First Growth for him, but where he was born in 1935. They were large shoes to fill since his father had overseen every vintage since 1921. However, not only did Jean-Bernard Delmas debut with the regal 1961 Haut-Brion that continues to astonish to this day, but he made the audacious decision to replace the château’s old wooden fermentation vats with twelve stainless-steel vessels. Its revolutionary impact cannot be overstated.

Turbot copy

Vinous Table: Terrazza Bosquet, Sorrento, Italy

Vinous Table, Italy: Center & South

Ian D'Agata, Oct 2019

Terrazza Bosquet is perhaps Sorrento’s most “in” restaurant at the moment. It boasts an amazing view in a gorgeous hotel that has been the haunt of many a famous name. An intimate menu and an excellent wine list make for a dining destination that tries hard to avoid falling into the tourist-trap cooking of similarly storied seaside hotels.