cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
In December last year, Château Talbot celebrated a century of ownership by the Cordier family with a vertical tasting at the property. This article assesses the vintages and where they place Talbot in the Saint-Julien hierarchy as a new chapter opens.
Vinous Table, France
I looked forward to Zoko Moko more than any other restaurant during my time in the Pays Basque. Many had sung its praises, and eating out in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is always a pleasure.
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
An extensive tasting of their top Grand Cru this spring demonstrated that sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret have quietly and methodically taken their famous father’s estate to greater heights through steady improvements in the vineyards and in the winery.
Following my look at ancient Madeira earlier this year, we shift the focus towards younger Madeira and more recent bottlings, many of which offer great value together with the joy that this fortified wine can bring.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Spain
It was a pleasure to take a break during a period of alternating between Bordeaux and Burgundy and attend a tasting of one of my favorite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal.
France: Bordeaux, featured
Jean-Bernard Delmas, who passed away at the age of 83 on 3 October 2019, was a giant figure in Bordeaux and especially the Graves. In 1960 Delmas succeeded his father, Georges Delmas, as régisseur of Château Haut-Brion, not just a First Growth for him, but where he was born in 1935. They were large shoes to fill since his father had overseen every vintage since 1921. However, not only did Jean-Bernard Delmas debut with the regal 1961 Haut-Brion that continues to astonish to this day, but he made the audacious decision to replace the château’s old wooden fermentation vats with twelve stainless-steel vessels. Its revolutionary impact cannot be overstated.
Vinous Table, Italy: Center & South
Terrazza Bosquet is perhaps Sorrento’s most “in” restaurant at the moment. It boasts an amazing view in a gorgeous hotel that has been the haunt of many a famous name. An intimate menu and an excellent wine list make for a dining destination that tries hard to avoid falling into the tourist-trap cooking of similarly storied seaside hotels.
France: Bordeaux, featured
The 1961 vintage continues to elicit tingles down the spine of Bordeaux-lovers. Almost sixty years later, how are they holding up and do they still deserve our reverence? What factors determined their quality? And who is Chairman Miaow?
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Piedmont, Italy: Piedmont
Giacomo Conterno’s 1970 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is one of my very favorite wines. When Il Professore told me he might bring a bottle to dinner, I didn’t think he actually would, much less show up with a bottle of the 1970 Barolo also in tow. But, so he did!