Clos dioterie 1983

Cellar Favorite: 1983 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Loire

Neal Martin, Sep 2021

Though I have always adored the Loire, I never had the opportunity to devote time à la Burgundy or Bordeaux. However, in recent weeks, several exceptional mature Loire wines crossed my path. I would be remiss not writing about them.

Jean faure bottles

Left Bank on the Right: Jean Faure 2007–2018

France: Bordeaux, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives

Neal Martin, Sep 2021

Jean Faure is a bit of an anomaly in Saint-Émilion, an estate built around Cabernet Franc instead of Merlot. This was the first time that I conducted a vertical of recent vintages, and it led to a better understanding of the wines.

Noval 2019 bottles copy

Cellar Favorite: Quinta do Noval 2019s

Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Sep 2021

When I was at Château Pichon-Baron in June, Christian Seely finished my Bordeaux tasting with the three latest releases from Quinta do Noval, part of Axa-Millésime’s portfolio of properties.

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From Domesday to Now: Nyetimber

United Kingdom, featured

Neal Martin, Sep 2021

Nyetimber pioneered the use of noble varieties that had been so successful in Champagne, a game changer that predicated today's flourishing English sparkling wine industry. This article examines innovations at the estate as well as tasting notes of mature and current releases.

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Back For More Beaujolais

France: Rhône & Beaujolais, featured

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

My first foray into Beaujolais was not writing about it, but shipping it from one side of the world to the other. Mea culpa: I played my part in the not-so-carbon-neutral tradition of freighting jumbo jets full of Beaujolais Nouveau to Japan every third Thursday in November. Fortunately, I was never asked to dive into a swimming pool foaming with Gamay. I just had to get it there on the dot.

Lamb

Vinous Table: The Witchery, Edinburgh, Scotland

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

The Witchery was my first dinner in the Scottish capital, which, as I was about to discover, is blessed with a thriving dining culture. The Witchery’s setting is novel and quite wonderful, and the service was excellent.

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Vinous Table: Trivet, London, UK

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

Coming so soon after a fallow period for dining out, this evening at Trivet was perhaps even more enjoyable than if it had taken place before the pandemic. The company, the dishes and, of course, the wines were all exemplary.

Chevalier bottles copy

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind

France: Burgundy, featured

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

The 2017 white Burgundy vintage vies with 2014 as the decade's best. After a year off due to the pandemic, the annual Burgfest tasting was back to examine over 200 wines, all blind, that bestowed the usual ragbag of expected triumphs, unexpected disappointments, outbreaks of euphoria and mass head-scratching.

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Vinous Table: The Ivy, Guildford, UK

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

The genius of the restaurant is that you dine on familiar English food in an atmosphere that makes it feel like the place to be. It buzzes with excitement. Every table is full. It’s noisy but you can hear each other speak.

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Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016

France: Burgundy, featured

Neal Martin, Aug 2021

In my round-up of mature Burgundy red and whites encountered over recent months, I examine how its value has changed through history before highlighting notable bottles. Famous names from the Côte d'Or intermingle with kindred spirits from Chablis, Beaujolais and the Mâconnais, as a reminder that longevity is not exclusive to famous and/or expensive names.